Tuesday, December 14, 2021

TUTORIAL: Rotbringer Sorcerer


The Maggotkin of Nurgle have a brand new model alongside their new Battletome in the form of a new Rotbringer Sorcerer! This model has a ton of character and also a lot of details. In today's article I take you through a step by step tutorial on how to paint this master of maladies.

First off, thank you to Games Workshop for sending me this free review copy of the new model. I've already painted a few mortal units for my Nurgle, so I knew more or less what colors I was going to use for this model, but the trick was figuring out the placement of the colors. This mini also has a distinct lack of open wounds, which is unique for a Nurgle model and presents a few new challenges with how to make it pop. 

The Skin


Step 1.

I started with the skin, since it’s one of the largest areas of color on the model. The whole thing was primed with Mechanicus Standard Grey, and I kept the backpack and scythe arm separate to make it easier to paint.

All of the skin was base coated with Rakarth Flesh. Don’t forget the arm holding the scythe.


Step 2.

This was then given an all over wash of a 50/50 mix of Reikland Fleshshade and Lahmian Medium. Go back in after it’s dry and darken down any areas that need more definition with more of the mix as needed


Step 3.

I then highlighted all of it with Pallid Wych Flesh. Use thin lines and just pick out the edges of muscles and folds.


Step 4.

Next, using a mix of Carroburg Crimson and Lahmian Medium, probably around 30/70, I started to build up the bruising on certain areas of the model. I focused on any pustules, the knuckles, elbows, and lower lip. Build this up over several thin layers. You can always make it darker and more intense, but it’ll be harder to make it lighter if you accidentally use too much. Any of the more prominent pustules also got a glaze of undiluted Seraphim Sepia. This was mostly on his arms.


Step 5.

I then went back and touched up any highlights dulled by the Carroburg Crimson glaze with Pallid Wych Flesh.


Step 6.

Lastly, I used White Scar very sparingly to pick out stuff like the knuckles and nose. I also picked out the teeth with Screaming Skull at this point.

The Green Cloth



Step 1.

The green cloth of his robes were base coated with Castellan Green.


Step 2.

This was then shaded by mixing progressively more Abaddon Black into the Castellan Green, and painting it into the folds. This step is a bit of a back and forth between the green and the green/black mix. You want to get a gradual blend. I went this route since it’s a character model, but you can also wash it with Nuln Oil and then relayer Castellan Green on the raised areas for a quicker effect that will look pretty similar


Step 3.

I then highlighted with with Death Guard Green. I just picked out the edges of folds and holes. I also painted on some scratches around the bottom to make it look like it’s a thicker fabric that’s been a bit weather beaten.


Step 4.

Lastly, I used Nurgling Green to pick out the most prominent areas.

The Dark Green Cloth




Step 1.

For the cloth that’s folded over the lower robes I decided to just go with a darker version of the robes themselves. This was base coated with a 50/50 mix of Castellan Green and Abaddon Black.


Step 2.

I then highlighted it in the same manner as the robes, but used Castellan Green.


Step 3.

The final highlight was done with Death Guard Green, and was just used on the most prominent areas


Step 4.

After I was done highlighting it, I decided I wanted a bit more variation in tone, so I glazed some Abaddon Black into the lower third of it and any folds. It didn’t make a huge difference, so if you’re happy with how it looked in the previous step, you can skip this step.

The Purple Cloth



Step 1.

The cloth on his shoulder and the hood were base coated with Screamer Pink.


Step 2.

I then shaded it using a mix of Abaddon Black and Screamer Pink in the exact same manner that I shaded his green robes. Again, it will be a bit of a back and forth, blending and getting smooth transitions. I wanted this to be a bit darker though, so I really only used pure Screamer Pink on the edges and tops of folds.


Step 3.

This was then edge highlighted with Screamer Pink mixed with a little bit of Screaming Skull. I also added scratches to it at this time.


Step 4.

Finally, I mixed in even more Screaming Skull and did a more refined highlight.

The Fly Parts



Step 1.

All of the fly bits were base coated with Abaddon Black. On my model that was just the one leg and the extra arm, but if you decided to use the fly head, then it would be that as well.


Step 2.

These were then edge highlighted with Dawnstone.


Step 3.

Lastly, I used Grey Seer to pick out corners and other "reflection" points. You want to use this sparingly.

The Dark Wood



Step 1.

The staff and planks of wood on his back were base coated with Rhinox Hide.


Step 2.

These were then shaded with Nuln Oil. On the staff I just painted this only into the areas I wanted a shadow, while on the planks it was a bit more all over. Then tidy up with Rhinox Hide so the wash is just in the recesses.


Step 3.

I then edge highlighted all of this with Gorthor Brown.


Step 4.

Finally, I mixed a little bit of Screaming Skull into the Gorthor Brown and picked out the most prominent areas.

The Wooden Chest



Step 1.

For the chest on his back I decided to go with a warmer wood and base coated it with Mournfang Brown.


Step 2.

This was then give 2 all over washes of Agrax Earthshade. Let the first one dry completely before doing the second.


Step 3.

I then edge highlighted it with a mix of Mournfang Brown and a little Screaming Skull.


Step 4.

I finished it off with a more refined highlight by mixing in a little more Screaming Skull.

The Fly Wings



Step 1.

The fly wings in front of his robes were base coated with Grey Seer.


Step 2.

These were then given an all over wash of a 50/50 mix of Coellia Greenshade and Lahmian Medium.


Step 3.

I then edge highlighted them with White Scar.

The Bone and Rope



Step 1.

All of the bone and rope areas were base coated with Rakarth Flesh. I also painted the parchment and candles at this point, as it will be a good color to work off of for them.


Step 2.

All of the bone and rope was then given a wash of Agrax Earthshade.


Step 3.

Next, I tidied back up with Rakarth Flesh, leaving the shade in the recesses.


Step 4.

Lastly, I highlighted it with Pallid Wych Flesh.

The Parchment and Candles



Step 1.

Both the parchment and the candles were base coated with Ushabti Bone.


Step 2.

This was then shaded with Agrax Earthshade on the parchment. I only painted this into the areas that needed to save time with clean up.


Step 3.

I then tidied up with Ushabti Bone.


Step 4.

Next, I glazed areas of the parchment with thinned down Seraphim Sepia, like near the bottom, to give it some more depth. You can build this up over a few layers. At this point I also shaded the candles with undiluted Sepia and tidied them back up with Ushabti Bone.


Step 5.

Both the candles and the parchment were highlighted with White Scar.


Step 6.

The lettering on the parchment was painted with thinned down Screamer Pink. There's no real trick to this besides a brush with a good point, a steady hand, and practice.

The Leather



Step 1.

The leather, which on this model are the straps on the parchment rolls and the straps holding on the chest on his back, were base coated with Rhinox Hide and then highlighted with Bloodreaver Flesh.


Step 2.

This was followed by Knight-Questor.

The Metallics



Step 1.

All of the silver areas were base coated with Leadbelcher.


Step 2.

All of the gold areas were base coated with Balthasar Gold.


Step 3.

Both of these colors were then shaded with Agrax Earthshade.


Step 4.

They were then highlighted with Stormhost Silver. I added in some chips and scratches on the larger areas at this point too.


Step 5.

Finally, the gold was weathered by painting in some watered down Nihilakh Oxide into the crevices. This is a really strong color, so use it sparingly and build it up where you want over several layers.

Assemble and Paint Check



Step 1.

At this point I was able to glue the scythe arm and backpack onto the model as it wouldn't interfere with painting it anymore. Generally it helps to glue your subassemblies together as soon as possible. I also went around and touched up any highlights that may have gotten rubbed off, or needed to be punched up a bit.

The Flames



Step 1.

The candle flames were base coated with Moot Green.


Step 2.

These were then shaded with Hexwraith Flame.


Step 3.

Next, I tidied up with Moot Green again.


Step 4.

Lastly, I painted a bit of Caliban Green onto the tips of the flames, and mixed a little bit of White into the Moot Green for the base of the flames. You may want to try and blend both of these into the Moot Green a bit.

The Smoke



Step 1.

Both the smoke coming from the skull and the smoke coming from the candle were base coated with Dawnstone.


Step 2.

I then glazed some Death Guard Green into the base of the smoke. Also work this into the crevices of the smoke higher up. Build this up gradually, with it becoming greener near the base.


Step 3.

Next, I highlighted it with Grey Seer. Focus this near the "top" of the smoke, but carry it down into the base a bit as well.


Step 4.

To make it look like there is a glowing source near the base of the smoke I painted some Moot Green right into the base line. I also added some specks of Moot Green throughout the smoke to look like embers. This was followed by mixing a little White into it and being even more refined with it. On the skull I painted this into the eye sockets as well.


Step 5.

Finally, I highlighted the very tip of the smoke with some White Scar.

The Sludge



Step 1.

The sludge in the pail was base coated with Elysian Green.


Step 2.

This was then shaded with Athonian Camoshade.


Step 3.

Next, I highlighted it with Elysian Green again, painting in ripples and flow lines.


Step 4.

This was followed by Ogryn Camo.


Step 5.

Lastly, a little bit of Krieg Khaki was used to make it pop.

The Nurgling Hand



Step 1.

The last bit of detail on the model is the Nurgling hand sticking out of the chest on his back. I base coated with with Hobgrot Hide. Normally for my Nurgle demons I have a whole method of painting them that involves a lot of drybrushing, but for such a small section it made more sense to do something simpler. I've also found that Hobgrot Hide is pretty close to the finished color of my demon skin anyway.


Step 2.

This was then washed with Seraphim Sepia.


Step 3.

Lastly, it was highlighted with Krieg Khaki.


That's it, your Rotbringer Sorcerer is done! I based mine to match my army, using my Swamp Base tutorial, but you can base your's however you want. This model is deceptively complex. He may be small, but he has a lot of different textures, colors, and details on him, so take your time. You can also use the majority of these colors and techniques on the rest of your Rotbringer collection.



Until next time,

Tyler M.

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